Kumaon Chapter
8 - 12 May 2025
CompletedOverview
The Kumaon chapter of Bṛhat Anveṣī brings you the unique charm of Kumaon, featuring its stunning Hindu architectural marvels and breathtaking vistas of snow-capped mountains.
These temples and the traditions around them exhibit a unique blend of mÄrgÄ«ya and desÄ«ya traditions of BhÄratavará¹£a. They embody an almost perfect Hindu life where the sacred presence of the temple influences nearly every aspect of life, with the mundane seamlessly sacralized by the Åakti of the deity enshrined at the temple's center.
With the added beauty of Kumaoni culture, music, and cuisine, this chapter offers an enriching and exhilarating journey through both culture and nature.
Highlights
Discover the soul of one of the most mysterious kṣetras of the Himalayas through its temples, art, food and culture.
Immerse in the great synthesis of mārgīya and deśīya in rituals, cosmology, architecture, and sculpture.
Experience a blend of nature and culture/ prakṛti and saṃskṛti, where the spires of hundreds of temples compete with canopies of alpine trees in a symphony.
Witness temples from almost all eras from pre-Islamic times to modern times, showing establishment, sustenance and revival of the temple eco-system.
Behold a vibrant display of legends crisscrossing geography seamlessly, sacralizing space, and kṣetras localizing legends
Sūtradhāra - Your Temple Expert
Pankaj Saxena
Pankaj is an author on Hindu temples, arts, literature, history and culture. His writing explains the beauty of Sanātana Dharma through stories about traditions, communities and culture. He has a deep interest in cultural anthropology, evolutionary biology and ecology, and has visited more than 1600 Hindu temples.
Interested in this chapter?
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Temples Covered
Chitai Golu Devta Temple
Nothing gives one a flavor of what Kumaoni culture is, than a visit to the Chitai Golu Devta temple. It does not have imposing or ancient architecture. It is a small temple on a hill. And yet it is the center of life for Almora town near which it is located. The temple tells us how Sanātana dharma is capable of producing the greatest classical architecture on one hand and yet is capable of celebrating the most modestly built temples in local styles, full of bhakti and rituals, on the other. In Hindu tradition it is called the balance of the mārgīya and deśīya, where local (deśīya) gods and customs are accommodated in mārgīya Sanātana Dharma. Golū Devatā, revered as the god of justice, is a prominent deity of the Kumaoni community in Uttarakhand. He is believed to be an incarnation of Shiva, called Gaura Bhairava and is worshipped across the region.
Kasar Devi Temple
Uttarakhand is the abode of all gods, as it is the Devabhūmi. But it is also a powerful Śakta kśetra. Like all great pahadi states and towns in north India, the local cultures saw a sharp increase in Śakti worship in the middle ages, when the first wave of Islamic iconoclasm had swept through the region and reconstruction started happening at many places which saw destruction of temples. Great temples of terrifyingly beautiful goddesses started adorning the borders of great pahadi regions like Himachal, Garhwal and Kumaon. One such temple of Śakti which protects Kumaon, its people and culture is Kasar Devi. Located in a serene village near Almora it houses an akhaṇḍa jyoti that has been continuously burning for years, day and night. Nestled amidst deodar and pine forests, the hilltop offers breathtaking views of the Himālayas and the Hawalbagh Valley. This temple also represents the revival of Hindu Dharma in the post classical period.
Katarmal Sun Temple
Sanātana Dharma accepts the modest and the regional but at the same time it elevates them with the classical. Uttarakhand being Devabhūmi, combines regional architecture with the classical canons of Hindu temple architecture, sculpture and iconography. And while there are many temples in modest and regional styles, great stone temples in classical tradition adorn many of its beautiful temple complexes, one of which is the Katarmal Sun Temple complex. Renowned for its intricate sculptures, artistic stonework, and carved wooden panels, the temple complex features one main shrine dedicated to Sūrya, known as Burhadita or Vraddhāditya, surrounded by 44 smaller shrines. The temple also houses vigrahas of Śiva-Pārvatī and Lakṣmī-Nārāyaṇa. The first rays of the sun illuminate the temple, showcasing its unique architectural alignment. This temple is built in an unique nāgara pahadi style of architecture and proves that Sūrya worship is still prevalent in many parts of Bhāratavarṣa.
Kapileshwar Mahadeva Temple
While Śakti and Sūrya are worshipped in Kumaon, and Śiva takes on the form of kṣetrīya deities, in other great temples he is worshipped in the classical form too. The Kapileshwar Mahadev Temple, is an ancient and beautiful temple in Kumaon built in classical style with unique adaptation in architecture to thrive in cold mountainous weather. The kṣetra itself is believed to be thousands of years old, but historically the present structure was built about twelve hundred years ago in the ninth century by the great kings of the Katyuri dynasty. Dedicated to Lord Śiva, the temple houses a svayaṃbhū Śiva liṃga and is situated at the confluence of the Shakuni and Fadka rivers, adding to its mystic charm. The architecture reflects traditional but also unique Kumaoni nāgara style, blending harmoniously with nature, while sculptures at the gate add to its grandeur.
Bagnath Temple, Bageshwar
A river is considered holy and a confluence of river holier. Some of the greatest tīrthas of Hindu Dharma are located at such confluences of great rivers. The Bagnath temple at Bageshwar is one such ancient temple, dedicated to Lord Śiva, at the confluence of the Sarayu and Gomati rivers. The city of Bageshwar is named after this temple. It is an example of the model of Hindu urbanization where a temple is not created at the center of the city, but instead a temple is created and then the city comes up around it, thriving on the economic and social activity that the temple eco-system generates. According to the legend, Sage Mārkaṇḍeya worshipped Śiva here, who appeared as a tiger. While the kshetra is fourteen hundred years old, the current nāgara-style structure was built in 1450. Mentioned in the Skaṇda Purāṇa, it attracts devotees year-round, especially during Śivarātri.
Gopeshwar Mahadeva, Kholi
Hindu cosmology is not just a collection of stories. It is the mechanism of sacralizing geography. Legends are rooted in real places, giving them anchors in place and time. And places are elevated by sacred legends told and retold in the countless Hindu śāstras. Gopeshwar temple is a paurāṇika temple mentioned in the Skanda Purāṇa. The legend of Śiva destroying Kāmadeva vibrates all around in this temple. Śiva is also known as Jhaṣaketuhara in this region. This is also where Śiva earned the epithet Ratiśvara, as Kāmdeva's wife, Rati, performed tapasyā near a sacred pond after her husband's demise. Moved by her devotion, Śiva blessed her, assuring her that Kāmadeva would be reborn as Pradyumna, the son of Bhagavāna Kṛṣṇa, and they would reunite. Located in the heart of Gopeshwar, this temple represents the confluence of natural and cultural beauty of a pahadi town and also depicts how legends, places and deities come together in Sanātana Dharma.
Dandeshwar Mahadeva Temple
Dandeshwar Mahadeva Temple Complex, near the more famous Jageshwar temple complex is famous for a paurāṇika reason. It is said that Lord Śiva used to do great tapas here and the wives of rishis also used to frequent the place. Looking at the meditating yogi and his body, many of them developed romantic feelings for him. When their husbands got to know about this, they cursed Lord Śiva that he will become a ‘śila’ - slab of stone right here. Since then Śiva became a śila here and is worshipped in this form only and not in the usual form of Śiva Liṃga. This temple is surrounded by dense deodar forests with a backdrop of majestic hills, creating a tranquil and mystical ambiance. Built in the ancient nāgara style, the temple features a distinctive curvilinear tower with distinct pahadi features, with a few sculptures of his gaṇas.
Jageshwar Temple
Jageshwar Dham is one of the world’s largest and most breathtaking temple complexes, comprising over 125 magnificent temples, both big and small, nestled amidst green mountains and the gentle flow of the Jata Ganga stream. The legend of Śiva resounds high here as the temple is dedicated to Lord Śiva in the form of Jāgeśvara and is considered a jyotirliṃga. It is said that Śiva himself attained heights of knowledge here, having awakened the jñāna inside him, hence Jāgeśvara. Another legend says that it is Śrī Viṣṇu who established this jyotirliṃga and thus it has a special importance. With temple spires and tree tops huddling in high density in this region, devotees visiting this sacred place in a series of pilgrimage, and the temple priests recounting the legends that attest to the sacredness and ancientness of this temple attested in Liṃga Purāṇa and many others, this is a site like no other.
Vridh Jageshwar Temple
Vriddha Jageshwar Temple, located slightly upstream from the main Jageshwar temple complex, is perched on a hill and is known as the "Old Śiva Temple." This temple features in the pilgrimage trail which includes the great Jageshwar Dham complex. Like the name says, the bigger Jageshwar Dham that exists today is a later creation, and in earlier times it was the Vriddha (old) Jageshwar temple which served in its place. Like everything else in Sanātana Dharma, nothing begins anew, and everything has roots in an event much older than it. It is believed to be Lord Śiva's abode before he descended to Jageshwar. One of the most captivating features of Vriddha Jageshwar is the serene and unbroken tranquility it exudes. The temple, built in the traditional nāgara architectural style, has a simple yet timeless structure. Reaching the temple is an enchanting experience, involving a scenic trek through lush forests and winding trails that add to its mystical charm.
Badrinath Group of Temples, Dwarahat
“yad brahmāṇḍe tad piṇḍe” meaning that the macro cosmos is reflected in the micro cosmos. While there is the concept of the Char Dhams at four corners of Bhāratavarṣa, Uttarakhand itself has the concept of Char Dhams and many places inside India have the concept repeated on ever smaller scales. Similarly, while there is Mount Kailasha which lies now in Tibet, there are five Kailashas in India in Uttarakhand and Himachal Pradesh. Similarly there are seven or eight Badrinath temples, not just the one in the town of Badrinath. Within Uttarakhand there are other Badrinath temples and one is in Kumaon called the Badrinath Temple of Dwarahat. Dedicated to Bhagavāna Viṣṇu the temple complex comprises three temples, with the central shrine housing a black stone vigraha of Viṣṇu. Surrounded by the majestic peaks of the Himālayas, the site is steeped in history and legend. It is believed that the Pāṇḍavas spent some time here during their journey.
Mrityunjay Group of Temples
Dwarahat has many temples which inspire us today about the greatness of our ancestors. A historic town in Uttarakhand, it once served as a vital hub for pilgrims traveling to the Pañca Kedāras, Pañca Badrīs, Pañca Prayāgas, and other significant Hindu pilgrimage sites. The very name means “way to heaven” and it literally is so. It is not just a gate but also is a great temple town in itself. The town is home to a collection of many temples built and restored between the 8th and 16th centuries, primarily under the patronage of the Katyuri dynasty. The Mrityunjaya temple is a 10th to 11th-century Śiva temple in nāgara-style with the main Śiva shrine, dedicated to Bhairava. It displays utter simplicity of architecture but displays all the classical elements. Even after the waves of destruction the temple has retained its living status and continues to be in worship today.
Ratnadeva Group of Temples
The Ratan Deo group of temples are Hindu temples dating from the 11th to 13th centuries, located in Dwarahat. The architectural style of these temples is similar to other structures in the Kumaon region, showcasing a blend of northern Indian and local architectural elements. The Ratan Deo Temple Complex originally comprised nine shrines, though only six temples remain intact today. Three of the temples stand on a shared platform, each preceded by a common north-facing maṇḍapa, dedicated to Lord Brahmā, Viṣṇu, and Śiva. The great rishis of Bhāratavarṣa arrived upon a perfect system which makes sure that there is minimum social strife between different groups and communities. The temple eco-system facilitated this and most great temple towns had temples of all major sects at one single platform to make sure no social rift amongst its followers leads to social strife. In the Ratan Deo group of temples too one sees this social wisdom and spiritual unity.
Baijanth Group of Temples
Situated in the exquisite Katyur valley of the Kumaon range of Himalayas, the Baijnath Temple Complex is a group of 18 Hindu temples located in the town of Baijnath, situated along the left bank of the Gomati River. The town of Baijnath served as the capital of the Katyuri kings and was called Kartikeyapura in ancient times. The complex houses more than hundred vigrahas. The main shrine in the complex is dedicated to Vaidyanātha Śiva, represented as a liṅga. A remarkable artistic feature of the complex is the depiction of Pārvati, crafted from grey chlorite schist. Additionally, a notable sculptural element is a life-size image of Kāla Bhairava in vīrāsana posture, seated outside the Vaidyanātha Temple. The temples follow simple but classical nāgara style śikharas. Another example of fractal nature of Hindu tīrthas, one sees that it shares the name and legend with the temple of Baijnath in Himachal Pradesh and also the great jyotirliṃga of Vaidyanatha in Jharkhand.
Kainchi Dham
Hindu āgamas talk about five kinds of temples: 1. Svayaṃbhū (appearing on their own). 2. Daivika (created by the gods) 3. Ārṣa (created by great ṛṣis and jñānīs) 4. Paurāṇika (mentioned in the Purāṇas) and 5. Mānuṣa (created by ordinary mortals with proper rituals). Kainchi is a serene and secluded mountain āśrama nestled in the Kumaon Hills of Uttarakhand. With no Paurāṇika or śāstrīya origins, it is still a great center for it is created by a jñānī. Established in the 1960s by Neem Karoli Baba, one of the self-realized jñānīs of the contemporary era, he has inspired many on the path of spiritual seeking and is revered as a saint by countless devotees. The āśrama gets its name from the unique scissor-like shape formed by the two hills that surround it. The main temple at Kainchi Dham is dedicated to Lord Hanumān, making visits on Tuesdays particularly sacred for devotees.